Musings of a Naturalist — random ramblings
The story behind the stories
I wrote a series of short articles for Evolve Back (then called Orange County) about my experiences as a naturalist in the Kabini region of Nagarhole National Park. These articles and accompanying photographs were published on the blog section of their website between 2008 and 2014. Recently, while going through my archives, I realized that with some editing and rewriting, they would make a nice collection that I could share in sequential instalments. Welcome to ‘Musings of a Naturalist’ I hope you derive as much pleasure in reading them as I did in rereading and editing them after a gap of over ten years.
The Rescue
While one does one’s best not to intervene and let nature take its course, we’ve often been compelled to save or rescue snakes from the resort premises, but this was a different kind of rescue and a first for us.
At about 10 AM one morning, I got a frantic call from my wife Gowri, informing me that a bunch of crows were attempting to get at a juvenile Asian Koel, which had, in turn, taken refuge in our garden. Along with Bruno (our Dachshund), she was keeping the crows at bay, but she was not sure how long she could hold out and wanted me to come and get the Koel.
Asian Koels belong to a family of birds known as parasitical cuckoos as they do not build nests of their own, but instead, lay their eggs in the nests of other birds, thereby palming off their parental duties to another.
The two common parasitical cuckoos found in the Kabini area are the Common Hawk Cuckoo, also known as the Brainfever Bird due to its distinct call, and the Asian Koel.
The Common Hawk Cuckoo prefers to use the Babbler’s nest, while the Koel usually uses the crow’s nest. The eggs of parasitical cuckoos bear a striking resemblance to the eggs of their hosts or foster parents. This is so that the foster parents do not reject a strange egg or one that looks a little different.
However, once the chick has grown and the foster parents realize that the chick isn’t theirs, they see red and do their best to kill it. This was the case with the chick that took refuge at my house.
My colleague Nawarj and I rushed over and managed to get hold of the chick. She was safe with us for now, but we had to make sure that we released her in a safe place. This was easier said than done, as getting rid of the crows was proving to be difficult. They followed us continuously, determined to finish off their task. I soon realized that the only hope was to release the Koel into a thick bush where the crows could not get at her.
When the Koel was released in a suitable bush, we hung around to make sure that she remained safe. After a while, the crows realized they could not get at her and slowly left the place. Crows are very intelligent birds and fascinating to watch, and there was a good chance that they may return after we leave. We had released the Koel far away from the nest where she was born, hoping that it would make a difference. Looking at the crow’s reaction, I felt that the worst might just be over.
However, one can never tell.
Body Language
It is a commonly held belief among plenty of people that animals have no expressions — that they are expressionless. Anybody who has kept pets knows that this is certainly not the case. On the contrary, animals can be very expressive and body language plays an important role in communication between animals.
Body language is a primary means of conveying social information among mammals and other animal species. Some expressions can be accurately interpreted even between members of different species, anger and extreme contentment being classic examples. Others, however, are difficult to comprehend, even in familiar individuals.
Expressions rely upon minuscule differences in the proportion and relative position of facial features, and reading them requires considerable familiarity and sensitivity to them. They say animals have rudimentary taste buds. One thing that I know for sure is that all my dogs (seven in all, considering the years that have passed by) have had the taste buds of a gourmet chef.
One day, on a safari, I witnessed a scene that will remain etched in my memory forever. Not because anything dramatic happened but because of the expressions on the face of a Wild Boar that suddenly and quite unexpectedly came face to face with a Spotted Deer.
I was so excited that I leaned out of the jeep to freeze the moment on film. The Wild Boar then turned to look at me, and with what an expression on his face at that! I am sure he was equally amused at my expression.
This is among the best wildlife moments of my life. It definitely, counts among the top.
Papa John
The jungles of Kabini have many legends associated with them, and one of them was a ‘Living Legend’ — Col. John Felix Wakefield, lovingly called ‘Papa’ by all his friends, colleagues, guests, and probably all his ‘friends in the jungle’ too. Papa, aged 95, bid his final adieu to the one place he loved to live in and single-handedly placed on the world tourism map: Kabini. Kabini will never be the same after the sad demise of the great man.
Born in Bihar in 1916, Papa’s intimate relationship with wildlife began during his early years under the guidance of his father. After spending six years in England engaged in studies, Papa returned to where his heart lay: India.
He first worked as Manager of the Tajpur Estate at Bijinor. In 1941, he began his career in the Army, serving in various capacities until 1955. He was involved in the Jungle Training Division and the Burmese operations ending in Rangoon. He held the rank of Colonel in the Civil Affairs Services in Burma.
Yet, the allure of the jungle was too strong to resist. In 1967, Papa made a life-altering decision, transitioning from a successful career in the Army to the world of wildlife tourism. This journey culminated in the establishment of a joint venture in Kabini in 1978, a move that would forever link his name with the place. The venture is better known as the Rabini River Lodge and, by extension, Jungle Lodges & Resorts.
Papa will always be remembered for his generosity and hospitality. He could be found every evening sitting in his favourite chair sipping his preferred poison — Famous Grouse whiskey. He had an endless store of stories and would enjoy sharing them with his many guests.
The bar in the Kabini River Lodge has been renamed in his honour, a gesture that he would wholeheartedly approve of. Rest in peace, Papa. Kabini misses you.
The Kuruba Village
Close to the resort, there is a little gem tucked away and hidden from prying eyes. This is Sannemadanahalli, a small tribal village where time seems to be standing still. It is a delightful little place where one can still find traditional huts of the Kurubas, the native tribes of Kabini.
The village is a charming place where one can unwind while enjoying the simple hospitality of the people. They are fiercely proud of their heritage and more than willing to share it with you.
I have spent many mornings listening to tales from the Hejman or village elder, which transported me back in time. Apart from the stories and the culture that one soaks in, you can also just close your eyes and listen to the sounds as they go about their daily lives. The sound of people working in the fields, a cow or calf mooing for attention, the crank of the handle from the little forge or just the sound of the wind rustling through the undergrowth is indeed enchanting.
No spa or meditation centre can beat this soothing experience and a visit to this village is definitely one of the highlights of a trip to Kabini.
Colours of Kabini
I like to refer to the dry season in Kabini as the season of the ‘Reds’ as there are two species of trees, one of whose flowers are red and the other whose fruit is red, that stand out during this time. They are the Flame of the Forest and the Ficus.
The Flame of the Forest in bloom is a sight that has never ceased to hold me riveted. It is a species of tree that flowers during the dry season when the entire forest is parched. Its lovely red flame-shaped blossoms give it its common name — Flame of the Forest.
At this time of the year, when the forest is drying out, these blossoms provide life-giving nectar for the birds and bees. This is a godsend for the avid bird watcher, as a few hours spent near one such tree can yield some excellent sightings of birds — no need to move long distances. Be still, and the birds will come to you.
Here are some interesting facts about the Flame of the Forest tree. It is sacred to the moon and is said to have sprung from the fallen feather of a Falcon imbued with Soma, the beverage of the gods. Its flowers are supposed to contain the divine drink and are offered to the deities.
During the spring festival, a temporary yellow dye is made from them. The dry twigs of the tree are used to feed the sacred fire during poojas, and its wood is used to make sacred utensils. The leaf of this tree is trifoliate — the middle represents Vishnu, the left Brahma and the right, Shiva.
The other red that surfaces around this time is the Ficus tree, the fruit of which is red in colour. The fruit not only attracts many animals and birds, but the thick canopy of these trees provides much-needed shade in the hot months when practically every other tree is leafless. The temperature under the tree is at least four to five degrees lower.
Both trees, through their flowers and fruits respectively, provide much-needed succour to the wildlife during this time of relative scarcity.
After the spectacular display of reds by the Flame of the Forest and Ficus trees, it’s the turn of the Golden Shower Tree to display its spectacular yellow blossoms. The Golden Shower Tree is a native species that is present in large numbers in Kabini.
Its flowering is spectacular, with bright yellow flowers adorning the entire tree, adding much-needed colour to the forest. Also known as the Indian Laburnum or the Amaltas, this tree has multiple uses. Its bark is used as a tan and yields a red dye. Its sweetish fruit pulp is an effective purgative, even safe for pregnant women. A paste made from its roots is used to cure skin diseases and leprosy, and its leaves are reputed to heal ulcers.
This tree can only reproduce with the assistance of animals that eat its fruit pulp. The fruit is a long cylindrical pipe, and the seeds inside it are stored in little compartments encased in a strong-scented, sweetish pulp. Ripe pods are black in colour and fall whole to the ground. They do not split open to release their seeds for germination.
Interestingly, these seeds are released by animals that eat the fruit pulp. In Kabini, these include bears, wild boars, and monkeys. To reach the pulp, they crack open the pods, and the seeds pass through their digestive tracts, which helps in germination and spread.
The Dream Team
Not surprisingly, Kabini has a dream team, and the best place to watch them is when the Nelli or Amla tree is in full bloom. The members of this ‘Dream Team’ are langurs and spotted deer. When you spot a herd of spotted deer feeding, chances are that there will also be a troop of Langurs feeding on the trees above them.
A fruiting Nelli tree will always have a few Langurs on it as the fruit is much favoured by them. Langurs are messy eaters, and as they feed, they drop a lot of fruit on the ground. The fallen fruit attracts Spotted Deer, providing them with a delicacy usually out of their reach. Under every Nelli tree with Langurs on it, one will find Spotted Deer enjoying a meal that they cannot get to eat on their own.
There is another interesting dimension to this relationship between Spotted Deer and Langurs. They team up to warn each other of approaching predators. The Langur is a primate and thus possesses colour vision. Primates have colour vision as they need to know when fruits are ripe enough to be eaten. Spotted Deer, on the other hand, lacks this capacity and is also poor in discriminating between motionless forms.
Langurs make up for this flaw, and due to their high perch up in the trees, they can also detect predators earlier than the deer and warn them about them. Deer, on the other hand, have a very well-developed sense of smell and hearing, and they reciprocate by warning Langurs when they detect predators.
Together, they make a formidable team and it is not surprising that a tiger is successful only once in ten attempts in making a kill.
Cultivating the Wild
Coming from a planting background, one of the many joys in my life is bringing degraded areas back to their former glory. It is a slow process, but the joy and pleasure it brings is certainly worth the long wait. I got one such opportunity while I was in Kabini.
The resort’s site was once an agricultural field. The biggest disadvantage of agricultural land is the absence of trees. Crops do not grow well under trees and, therefore, are absent in agricultural fields. Thus, planting trees was the first thing we did. However, trees take time to grow, and to make up for this, we also decided to plant some shrubs. Only local shrubs were planted. They were taken from wherever they were found: the roadside, ditches, abandoned and fallow land, and so on.
Then came the question of grass. At first, exotic lawn grass was considered an option as this was, after all, a high-end resort. However, after careful thought and much deliberation, it was decided that we should let natural grass take over. The secret to success is to do as little as possible and leave the majority of the work to Mother Nature.
The other issue was mowing the grass. We decided not to cut the grass where we had planted shrubs, the idea being to create islands of wilderness between the cottages. We decided on a balance between the wild and the cultivated, with the balance slightly skewed in favour of the wild.
It took two years for the desired effect, but the bird life on the property is now thriving.
The Wonder Years
There is a garden in every childhood, an enchanted place where colours are brighter, the air softer, and the morning more fragrant than ever. Unfortunately, time is an ever-flowing river, like the Kabini. And before you know it, the kids have grown up and are ready to leave the nest.
I saw this young Long-tailed Shrike the other day, and it felt as if only yesterday I watched its parents build their nest. It made me take a good, long look at my daughter. And I suddenly realized that she, too, had grown! That’s life, I guess
I am sure the parents of the Long-tailed Shrike were used to the classic line — once the kids have left the nest, we might sell this house and move to someplace smaller.
Perhaps one of the hardest parts of being a parent is letting go. Liberating those we’ve created, raised, cared for, and built our worlds around is never going to be easy.
However, whenever I see how this unfolds in the wild, I am struck by the sheer effort the parent birds make to ensure that their kids get the best chance to survive — and then repeat the whole thing the very next year.
We humans have it easy ….. another lesson we can learn from the wild.
The Twilight Chase
Last evening’s Jeep safari was full of incidents. The weather was pleasant, and the lighting was perfect for enjoying nature at its best.
The safari began with a sighting of a pack of twelve Wild Dogs, including pups. After watching them for about half an hour near Sunkandakatte ) we proceeded towards Tiger Tank. We waited there for a while and then decided to move on as it was getting late. We took the road going straight out via the S Bend. Close to the K V Junction, we stopped to look at a herd of Gaurs, one of my favourite animals.
After a while, Langur alarm calls rang out, alerting a herd of Chital grazing nearby, to which they quickly responded with their own calls. The Chital were grazing to our left, while the Gaur and the Langur were to our right. Something was indeed up, and the tension in the air was palpable.
What followed next was one of the most stirring sights I have ever witnessed. One of the Chital persistently kept looking at a female Gaur that was grazing a little ahead of its herd. After a while, the female Gaur started moving away from us, along the undergrowth, snorting as she went. Suddenly, she picked up speed and flushed out a Leopard from the thick bushes.
The Leopard darted across the road in front of our jeep, relentlessly pursued by the Gaur, before disappearing into the undergrowth hotly pursued by the Gaur. We just stood there stunned. I have never seen anything like it before.
Taking photographs was the last thing on my mind.
